Party: Mountaineers - Leader: Craig Brown , Rope Leaders: Mike ? and I. Basic Students: Ron Williams, Patrick ?, and Rob ?.
Route: South Face
Weather: Good weather, mostly sunny with high cloud cover... pending thunderstorms for the afternoon, which we narrowly avoided.
I brought and used 6 single slings/draws. Bring a couple more or less depending on your feel for run-out.
As for the climb, it is easily done in two pitches. We scrambled up the back side of the dog-tooth crags, dropped the packs near a large boulder (at the top of a rappel station used to descend to the east side of the crags). From the packs you scramble up another 20 feet to a ledge where we rope up. From here two options are open. The wide crack on the left (which I have never done) and the smaller hand crack up the middle. If you start on the left, it makes most sense to climb to the top of the second pitch, where a healthy ledge and rappel station are located. Form the right crack, you can climb either to the first belay/rappel station to the right, or you could continue up to the second belay station. Between the top of the first pitch and the second Belay station is the crux move of the climb. The crack and jumble of rock thin down to a narrow finger crack. It is a single balancy move to move up, trusting your single hand placement, wishing you had thinner fingers.Some claim that this is a 5.6 move, though most of the route is 5.4 or lower. From the top of either the first or second pitch, the end of the climb can be reached with a 50m rope over easy ground. In other words, you can do this either as a single pitch followed by a double pitch, or vice versa.
Rappelling the route has the same various possibilities. We used a double rap from the top down to the top of the first pitch, and a single rap from there to the starting ledge, downclimbed to the packs and then a double rap from the packs to the east side of the dog-tooth crags. A 60 meter rope would get you from the top of the first pitch right down to the packs.
Yeah, yeah... too much information.