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Guye Peak (5168') - NW Face

Northwest Ramp (BR)- October 24 1999

Party: Mountaineers, lead by Greg Sullivan. Rope Leaders: Jeremy Wilson, Carl Jensen and Myself. Basic Students: Jason Griffith, Kris, John and Paul.

Weather: Beautiful late October day... and night.

Carl's View
Carl scrambles, I mean leads, with great background views (pc JG)
The approach
Jeremy and I on the approach (pc JG)
The summit
Me on the middle Summit (pc JG)

Your typical basic climb chock full of route finding difficulties (on approach), more route finding difficulties (on the rock) resulting in a minor "rescue" delay and be-nighting, rappeling in the dark, and a descent of the cave ridge trail in the dark.

On the approach, to find the North Gulley, when in doubt, keep heading left, then go left some more. The broad talus slope tends to suck you up to the south side of the face. Resist this tendency... the South gulley appears to meet the North Gulley description in many respects, until its too late and you have to rappel (as we did) and down climb the loose upper gulley back tracking to be able to traverse further North.

Really a great experience though. This climb ranks up there as one of my moments of discovery in alpine rock climbing. It was the first time that I stood beneath a wall with no clear climbing route description. It felt like a first ascent must feel, as I stood there looking for a line that would go. Found one that looked direct, protectable, within my and my partner's ability and fun and went for it.

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Created: Dec 28 2000
Copyright © 2000 Gordon Schryer.