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The Tooth (5604')

South Face - Oct 21 '98

The Tooth
The tooth - climbs the left skyline (pc:gs)

Party: Roger Kohn, Dave Wagner, Michelle Engelhart and I

In Seattle, When you get a weather forecast for record breaking 70 degree temperatures in late October, a day off to head into the mountains is a mandatory action. A friend, Josh Nelson, climbed the Tooth the previous Friday and had to wipe snow off the holds. We had warm dry rock, and some would argue a warm breeze too!


The tooth is 4 easy pitches. The first two pitches are 100ft and 60ft respectively, each 5.3. The third pitch is 160ft and the least technical, probably 4th class for the most part, but you can find some more interesting variations. The final pitch of 60 feet has a few options as well, from the catwalk(5.4) to the direct south face (5.6).

Roger and I teamed up with Dave and Michelle on the other rope. Roger and Dave led the first pitch. Michelle and I led the second and third pitches. These were Michelles first ever lead climbs of any kind!!! She did a great job, being fairly bold, placing very little protection. Roger and Dave led the final pitch on the south face (5.6).


Gearing up
Dave and Michelle - set to go (pc:gs)

Pitch 1
Roger leading out on the first pitch (pc:gs)

Pitch 2
Michelle's First Piece of Pro (on Pitch 2) (pc:gs)

Pitch 4
Dave Leading Pitch 4 - South Face 5.6 (pc:gs)

Pitch 4
Michelle follows Pitch 4 (pc:gs)

Summit Team
Roger, Dave and Michelle at Summit (pc:gs)

Me at Summit
Me at Summit with Chair Peak in Background (pc:gs)

Return to Gord's Climbing Page


Last updated: May 9 1999 - took a while for the pictures
Copyright © 1998 Gordon Schryer.
E-mail: grs@earthling.net.